When the New York Times named Morioka one of its "52 Places to Go," the world suddenly discovered what Iwate locals had known all along: this compact castle town, ringed by mountains and threaded by three clear rivers, is one of Japan's most quietly rewarding cities. And there is no better time to see it than mid-September, when the Morioka Hachimangu Shrine holds its Reitaisai — the grand annual festival better known as the Morioka Aki Matsuri, or Morioka Autumn Festival — from September 14 to 16, 2026.
The festival's origins go back to 1709, when townspeople first paraded celebratory floats through the streets to mark the completion of the Nanbu clan's castle town. More than three centuries later, the tradition is remarkably intact. Neighborhood float teams spend weeks building and decorating towering dashi floats, each one a rolling stage piled with peonies and dramatic life-size figures of kabuki heroes, samurai and legendary beasts. During the festival the floats are hauled through the city center to the beat of taiko drums and festival flutes, with children riding aboard and teams chanting as they go. After dark the floats glow with lanterns — the single most atmospheric moment of the festival, and the best time to photograph them.
Each of the three days has its own character. September 14 is the grand opening: solemn rites at the shrine in the morning, followed by the massed float parade through downtown. September 15 belongs to the gods — portable mikoshi shrines are carried in procession, and in the afternoon the shrine grounds host yabusame, horseback archery performed in the centuries-old Nanbu style, with riders in traditional dress galloping down a dirt track and loosing arrows at wooden targets. It is loud, fast and genuinely thrilling — arrive early to claim a spot along the fence. On September 16 the floats make their final rounds of the neighborhoods before being dismantled for another year.
The shrine itself is worth a slow visit even amid the festival crowds. Morioka Hachimangu is Iwate's largest shrine, its vermilion main hall rebuilt in 1997 and set at the top of a long, gently climbing approach. During the festival that approach becomes a canyon of food stalls: expect grilled squid, chocolate bananas, jajamen noodles, and plenty of local sake from the surrounding countryside.
Make time for the rest of the city while you're here. The Morioka Castle Ruins Park is a fifteen-minute walk from the shrine, its moss-covered granite walls rising above the Nakatsu River — by mid-September the first hints of autumn color appear in the treetops. Foodies should attempt Morioka's famous noodle trifecta: wanko soba (all-you-can-eat soba served in tiny bowls by relentless waitresses), jajamen (miso-sauced noodles you finish by turning the bowl into egg soup) and reimen (chewy cold noodles in beef broth, crowned with watermelon). For souvenirs, head to Morioka Tezukuri Mura, a craft village where you can watch Nambu ironware being cast and even hammer your own senbei crackers.
Getting there: Morioka is on the Tohoku Shinkansen, about 2 hours 10 minutes from Tokyo Station. From Morioka Station, buses to "Hachimangu-mae" take about 15 minutes; on foot it's a pleasant 30-minute walk through the old merchant quarter. Tips: book accommodation early — mid-September combines the festival with a national holiday period and hotels fill fast; bring a light jacket, as Tohoku evenings already dip below 15°C; and carry cash for the food stalls, many of which don't take cards.
Image: Morioka Hachimangu Shrine by 663highland, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
