In 1583, a young warlord named Maeda Toshiie rode through the gates of Kanazawa Castle to claim his domain — a territory so rich in rice production that it was measured at a million koku, an almost unimaginable fortune. Four centuries later, the city still celebrates that moment every June with one of Hokuriku's grandest spectacles: the Kanazawa Hyakumangoku Festival.
The festival unfolds over three days, but the undisputed centerpiece is the Hyakumangoku Gyoretsu — a massive costumed procession that snakes through the city center on Saturday afternoon. Hundreds of participants dress as samurai warriors, ladies of the Maeda court, and retainers carrying war banners and golden standards. The parade departs from Kanazawa Castle Park, winds through the Katamachi and Korinbo shopping districts, and arrives at Oyama Shrine, dedicated to Lord Toshiie himself. If you want a front-row view, stake out a spot along Hyakumangoku-dori well before noon — locals start claiming pavement territory early.
Friday evening opens the festival with outdoor Takigi Noh — traditional masked theater performed by torchlight in the grounds of Kanazawa Castle. The flames flicker against the white-walled turrets of the Gojikken Nagaya storehouse, casting a mood that is equal parts haunting and sublime. This is free to attend, but space fills quickly. Arrive at least an hour early and bring something to sit on.
Saturday night belongs to fireworks. Shells burst above the Asano River and light up the castle walls — a view best enjoyed from the riverbanks near Kazue-machi, where old wooden teahouses line the water's edge. Sunday rounds out the weekend with neighborhood parades, taiko drum performances, and street food stalls stretching from the castle gates to Omicho Market.
Beyond the Festival
Kanazawa rewards visitors who linger. Kenrokuen Garden, one of Japan's three great gardens, sits right next to the castle and is at its lushest in early June — iris beds bloom purple along the streams, and the maples are a deep, electric green. Walk ten minutes east and you reach Higashi Chaya District, where wooden teahouses from the 1820s still serve matcha and gold-leaf sweets. Ten minutes in the other direction takes you to Nagamachi Samurai District, a quiet neighborhood of earthen walls and narrow lanes that feels untouched by the centuries.
For something completely different, the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art is a five-minute walk from Kenrokuen. Its circular glass building houses Leandro Erlich's famous Swimming Pool installation — you stand underneath a glass-bottomed pool and look up at visitors peering down from the surface. It works on every age group.
Practical Tips
Getting there: The Hokuriku Shinkansen connects Tokyo Station to Kanazawa Station in about 2.5 hours. From Osaka or Kyoto, the Limited Express Thunderbird takes around 2.5 hours.
Getting around: Kanazawa's main sights are compact enough to walk between, but the city loop bus (200 yen per ride, or 600 yen day pass) hits all the key stops. During the festival, expect extra crowds on buses — walking is often faster.
Accommodation: Book well in advance. The Hyakumangoku Festival is the city's biggest event, and hotels fill up weeks beforehand. Consider staying near Katamachi for nightlife and dining, or near the station for convenience.
Food: Don't leave without trying Kanazawa's famous seafood at Omicho Market — the kaisendon (sashimi rice bowls) are outstanding. Jibuni, a local duck stew thickened with wheat flour, is the traditional comfort dish. Gold-leaf soft-serve ice cream is the requisite tourist indulgence, best grabbed in Higashi Chaya.
Weather: Early June in Kanazawa often coincides with the start of tsuyu (rainy season). Bring a compact umbrella and waterproof shoes. The upside: rain keeps the gardens breathtakingly green.
Image: Kanazawa Castle, Ishikawa Prefecture, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
