While the rest of Japan wraps up cherry blossom season in early April, Hokkaido is just waking up. The island's capital, Sapporo, doesn't see peak sakura until late April or early May, and the mountain valley of Jozankei — just an hour's drive south — celebrates spring with one of Japan's most photogenic seasonal displays: hundreds of colorful carp streamers (koinobori) strung across the Toyohira River gorge.
If you've already done Tokyo and Kyoto in spring and want something refreshingly different, Hokkaido's late spring is your answer.
Jozankei Onsen: Hot Springs in a Mountain Gorge
Jozankei Onsen is Sapporo's backyard hot-spring resort, nestled in a forested gorge about 26 km south of the city center. It has been welcoming bathers since a monk named Miizumi Jozan discovered the springs in 1866, making it one of Hokkaido's oldest onsen towns.
The town sits along the upper Toyohira River, surrounded by steep, tree-covered slopes that turn vivid green in spring and fiery red in autumn. With over 50 hot spring sources feeding the area, the water is sodium chloride-based, known locally for soothing tired muscles and softening skin.
The Carp Streamer Display (April 10 - May 10)
Every spring, approximately 400 koinobori are strung on wires across the Toyohira River gorge, creating a stunning canopy of streaming color against the backdrop of mountains and rushing water. The Jozankei Onsen Carp Streamer Display runs from April 10 to May 10, 2026.
The best viewing spots:
- Futami Suspension Bridge — walk across this red bridge for eye-level views of the streamers fluttering over the gorge.
- Jozankei Dam area — for a wider panoramic shot with the dam and mountains behind.
- Along the river walking path — the gorge trail offers multiple angles and is especially beautiful in the morning light.
Koinobori are traditionally displayed for Children's Day (May 5) to wish children health and strength. At Jozankei, the sheer scale of the display — combined with the dramatic gorge setting — makes it one of Hokkaido's most Instagram-worthy spring sights.
Soaking In
Jozankei has a mix of large resort hotels and intimate ryokan, many offering rotenburo (outdoor baths) overlooking the river. For day-trippers:
- Jozankei Tsuruga Resort Spa Mori no Uta — upscale day-use onsen with forest views.
- Hoheikyo Onsen — a rustic, no-frills bathhouse deeper in the mountains, accessible by a scenic drive along Route 230. Their Indian-style curry is unexpectedly famous.
- Free foot baths — several are scattered along the main street, perfect for a quick soak between walks.
Sapporo: A City Savoring Spring
Back in the city, Sapporo in late April and early May has an energy that's hard to match. The long winter is finally over, and locals pour outside to celebrate.
Cherry Blossoms — Hokkaido Style
Sapporo's cherry blossoms typically peak around late April to early May, a full month after Tokyo. The best spots:
- Maruyama Park — Sapporo's most popular hanami spot, with 1,700 trees including Ezo-yamazakura, a Hokkaido-native species with slightly pinker, more delicate blossoms.
- Hokkaido Shrine — adjacent to Maruyama Park, the approach road is lined with cherry and plum trees blooming simultaneously.
- Asahiyama Memorial Park — a hilltop park with panoramic city views and fewer crowds.
- Moerenuma Park — Isamu Noguchi's landscape-art park becomes a vast pink-and-green canvas in spring.
Unlike the frantic one-week window in Tokyo, Hokkaido's cooler temperatures mean blossoms often last 10-14 days, giving you a more relaxed viewing experience.
Eat Like a Local
Spring is prime eating season in Sapporo:
- Soup curry — Sapporo's signature dish. Rich, spicy broth with chunky vegetables and your choice of protein. Try Suage+ or Garaku for acclaimed bowls.
- Genghis Khan (jingisukan) — grilled lamb on a dome-shaped grill, best enjoyed outdoors during hanami. Beer Garden at Sapporo Factory is a classic spot.
- Kaisendon (seafood rice bowl) — head to Nijo Market for morning bowls piled with uni (sea urchin), ikura (salmon roe), and crab fresh off the boats.
- Craft beer — Sapporo is Japan's beer capital. Visit North Island Beer for local brews, or the Sapporo Beer Museum for history and tastings.
Beyond the City
With a few extra days, extend your Hokkaido spring trip:
- Otaru — the canal city 40 minutes west by train. Charming warehouses, glasswork shops, and some of Hokkaido's best sushi. The canal is especially romantic in the evening.
- Noboribetsu Onsen — one of Japan's most dramatic hot spring towns, with a volcanic Hell Valley that steams and bubbles year-round. About 90 minutes south of Sapporo by bus.
- Furano and Biei — the flower fields don't peak until summer, but the rolling landscape is beautiful in spring green, and the area is blissfully uncrowded.
Practical Information
When to go: Late April to mid-May for the best overlap of cherry blossoms, koinobori, and pleasant weather (10-18 degrees C daytime).
Getting to Sapporo: Direct flights from Tokyo (Haneda/Narita), Osaka, and other major cities — about 1.5-2 hours. The Hokkaido Shinkansen currently runs to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto; from there it's about 3.5 hours by limited express to Sapporo.
Getting to Jozankei: Jotetsu Bus from Sapporo Station (Bus Terminal 12) — about 60-75 minutes, 800 yen one way. Buses run every 20-30 minutes. If driving, it's a scenic 50-minute drive via Route 230.
Jozankei Onsen location: View on map
Budget tips:
- The koinobori display and river walks are free.
- Day-use onsen fees range from 800-2,000 yen.
- A Sapporo-Otaru Welcome Pass (2,540 yen) covers unlimited train travel between the two cities for one day.
What to pack: Layers! Hokkaido spring mornings can be chilly (5-8 degrees C), warming to a pleasant 15-18 degrees C by afternoon. A light jacket and scarf are essential.
Why Hokkaido in Spring
Most international visitors flock to Hokkaido in winter (for skiing and snow festivals) or summer (for lavender fields and escape from the heat). Spring is the island's best-kept secret: the crowds are thin, the air is crisp, hotel prices are reasonable, and nature is putting on a show. Add carp streamers dancing over a mountain gorge, outdoor hot springs, and some of the freshest seafood in the country, and you have all the ingredients for an unforgettable trip.
See the Jozankei Koinobori event page →
Image: Jozankei Hot Springs, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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