Sprawling across the heart of Shiga Prefecture like an inland sea, Lake Biwa is the largest freshwater lake in Japan — and one of the oldest in the world. Its southern shore city of Otsu has served as a capital, a pilgrimage hub, and a summer retreat for well over a thousand years. In August, the city transforms into a stage for one of Japan’s most breathtaking fireworks spectacles, while the surrounding mountains and temples offer cool escapes from the humid lowlands. Best of all, Otsu sits just ten minutes by train from Kyoto Station, making it one of the easiest and most rewarding summer day trips — or overnighters — in the entire Kansai region.
The Biwako Grand Fireworks
The highlight of Otsu’s summer calendar is the Biwako Dai Hanabi Taikai, a fireworks festival that launches roughly 10,000 shells over the glassy surface of Lake Biwa. The show typically takes place on a Friday evening in early August, and the effect is extraordinary: each burst reflects off the water, doubling the spectacle into a shimmering mirror of light. Star mines, wide-angle fans, and massive set pieces paint the sky for about an hour, drawing hundreds of thousands of spectators to the lakeshore promenades around Otsu Port and Nionohama.
For the best views without the densest crowds, head to the grassy banks east of Zeze Castle ruins or find a spot along the Biwako Ohashi Bridge approach. Arriving by mid-afternoon secures a comfortable position; the area around JR Otsu Station and Keihan Hamaotsu Station fills quickly once the sun begins to set. Many locals book rooms at lakeside hotels months in advance for balcony viewing — if you can snag one, it is worth every yen.
Ancient Temples on the Mountain
Otsu’s spiritual heritage rivals that of its famous neighbor, Kyoto. Miidera (formally Onjoji) is one of the great head temples of Tendai Buddhism, founded in the seventh century and set against a forested hillside with sweeping views of the lake. Its bell, the Evening Bell of Miidera, is celebrated as one of the Eight Views of Omi — a classical landscape canon that has inspired poets and painters for centuries. Walking the temple grounds in the green hush of a summer morning, with cicadas droning and shafts of light filtering through the cryptomeria, is a meditative experience quite different from the crowded temples across the prefectural border.
Higher up, the cable car from Sakamoto climbs to Enryakuji on Mount Hiei, the monastic complex that shaped Japanese Buddhism for over 1,200 years. Founded by the monk Saicho in 788, it was once home to thousands of warrior monks and served as the training ground for virtually every major sect that followed — Pure Land, Zen, and Nichiren all trace lineage through its halls. In summer, the mountain summit is noticeably cooler than the plain below, and the ancient cedar forests surrounding the temple halls make the climb feel like stepping back several centuries. The panoramic view from the summit spans the full length of Lake Biwa to the north and the Kyoto basin to the west.
On and Around the Water
Lake Biwa itself is the main attraction for anyone seeking relief from August heat. The Michigan, a paddle-wheel cruise ship styled after the steamboats of America’s Great Lakes era, runs scenic loops from Otsu Port, offering lunch and sunset dinner cruises with live music on the upper deck. For something more active, kayak and stand-up paddleboard rentals are available along the Omi-Maiko beach area on the western shore, where the sandy stretch and pine groves evoke a surprisingly Mediterranean feel.
Cyclists love the Biwako cycling road, a well-maintained path that circles the entire lake over roughly 200 kilometers. The southern loop from Otsu through Moriyama and back is a manageable 60-kilometer day ride with flat terrain and constant lake views. Bike rental stations near JR Otsu Station make it easy to set out in the cool of early morning and return before the afternoon heat peaks.
Eating and Drinking Local
Shiga is the home of Omi beef, one of Japan’s three great wagyu brands and arguably the oldest — its history stretches back over 400 years. Otsu has excellent yakiniku and sukiyaki restaurants serving this richly marbled beef, often at prices considerably lower than comparable Kobe beef establishments in Osaka.
Freshwater fish from Lake Biwa feature heavily on local menus. Biwamasu, a salmon-trout species endemic to the lake, appears as sashimi, grilled shioyake, or pressed into a regional sushi called narezushi — a fermented preparation that is one of Japan’s most ancient food traditions. Ayu sweetfish, grilled whole over charcoal, is a quintessential summer delicacy available at riverside restaurants throughout the region. Pair your meal with a local Shiga sake — the prefecture’s soft lake-basin water produces clean, elegant brews that complement the subtle freshwater flavors perfectly.
Getting There and Tips
From Kyoto Station, JR trains reach Otsu Station in just nine minutes. From Osaka, the journey takes about 40 minutes via JR Special Rapid. Keihan Railway connects central Kyoto to Hamaotsu in about 20 minutes, dropping you right at the lakefront.
On fireworks night, return trains are extremely crowded and run extra services until late. Consider staying overnight in Otsu or nearby Ogoto Onsen, a hot spring resort on the lake’s western shore about 15 minutes north. Soaking in a rotenburo overlooking the moonlit lake after the fireworks is the perfect way to close a summer evening.
Bring sunscreen and a hat for daytime sightseeing — the lake reflects intense light in midsummer. For temple visits, start early in the morning when the grounds are coolest and the light most atmospheric. The Enryakuji cable car from Sakamoto runs frequently, but check the last departure time to avoid being stranded on the mountain after dark.
Image: Otsu at the south end of Lake Biwa in Shiga prefecture, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
