Utagawa Hiroshige walked the Tokaido — the great coastal road connecting Edo to Kyoto — in 1832, and the series of woodblock prints he created from that journey became one of the most recognized works in Japanese art history. Nearly two centuries later, the Hiroshige Tokaido 53 Stations: Prints x Photo exhibition at the MOA Museum of Art in Atami places those original prints alongside contemporary photographs of the same locations, creating a dialogue between 1830s Japan and today.
The exhibition runs from May 15 to July 7, 2026, giving visitors nearly two months to make the trip. And "trip" is the right word — part of the appeal is that the museum itself is a destination, perched on a hilltop above Atami with sweeping views of Sagami Bay.
The Exhibition
Hiroshige's Fifty-Three Stations of the Tokaido depicts every post town along the old highway, from Nihonbashi in Edo to Sanjo Ohashi in Kyoto. Each print captures a moment — rain slashing across a bridge at Shono, travelers huddled against snow at Kambara, ferries crossing the Oi River in summer heat. The genius lies in Hiroshige's ability to make weather and light the true subjects, with human figures often tiny against vast landscapes.
The "Prints x Photo" concept adds a modern layer. Contemporary photographers have visited the same 53 stations and captured what remains — and what has changed. A serene mountain pass might now be a highway interchange. A bustling post town might be a quiet residential street. The juxtaposition is sometimes poignant, sometimes funny, always thought-provoking.
MOA Museum of Art
The museum deserves time beyond the Hiroshige show. Its permanent collection includes three National Treasures, among them a gold-leaf tea room recreated from Toyotomi Hideyoshi's original, and Ogata Korin's famous "Red and White Plum Blossoms" screens (though these are typically displayed in February). The building itself, designed by architect Watanabe Hiroshi, channels visitors through a dramatic sequence of escalators and tunnels before opening into light-filled gallery spaces with ocean views.
The museum's hilltop garden is a hidden gem — a reconstructed traditional tea house, seasonal flowers, and a panoramic vista stretching from Atami's harbor to the Izu Peninsula.
Making a Day of It
Atami is just 35 minutes from Tokyo Station by Shinkansen (Kodama, around ¥3,740) or about 80 minutes by regular JR trains on the Tokaido Line (¥1,980). This makes it one of the easiest art day trips from the capital.
A suggested itinerary:
Morning: Take the Shinkansen from Tokyo, arriving in Atami by 10:00. From Atami Station, the MOA Museum shuttle bus (free, runs every 30 minutes) takes 7 minutes up the hill.
Midday: Explore the Hiroshige exhibition and the permanent collection. The museum's café serves excellent lunch sets with ocean views.
Afternoon: Head back down to Atami's town center. Walk along the Sun Beach waterfront promenade, or visit Kinomiya Shrine — home to a 2,000-year-old camphor tree that's one of Japan's largest. If you have time, detour to the Atami Plum Garden (though the plum blossoms peak in January–February, the garden is pleasant year-round).
Late afternoon: Soak in one of Atami's public onsen before catching the train back. Hinodesou, near the station, offers a casual day-use bath with good water quality.
Practical Details
Museum hours: 9:30–16:30 (last entry 16:00), closed Thursdays Admission: ¥1,600 (adults), ¥800 (university/high school students), free for children under 15 Access: MOA Museum shuttle bus from JR Atami Station (East Exit), 7 minutes, free Exhibition period: May 15 – July 7, 2026
Combine with: If you're in the area for a weekend, nearby Hakone offers its own art museums, hot springs, and mountain scenery. The Hakone Tozan Railway is a scenic 40-minute ride from Odawara, one station past Atami on the Tokaido Line.
Image: MOA Museum of Art, Atami, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
