Everyone knows Hakone for its hot springs, the lakeside torii gate, and the views of Mt. Fuji. Fewer people know that late May might be the best time to visit. The Golden Week crowds have dispersed, the summer humidity hasn’t arrived, and the mountains are draped in the fresh, electric green that the Japanese call shinryoku. This year, there’s an extra reason to make the trip: the Hakone Botanical Garden of Wetlands is celebrating its 50th anniversary with special programs and exhibitions.
The Wetland Garden at 50
Tucked into the Sengokuhara plateau at 650 meters elevation, the Hakone Botanical Garden of Wetlands (Hakone Shissei Kaen) is one of Japan’s most important collections of wetland plants. Founded in 1976, it preserves a marshy ecosystem that was once common across the Hakone caldera but has largely disappeared elsewhere.
In late May, the garden enters one of its peak seasons. Japanese irises begin their display, water lilies open across the ponds, and alpine wildflowers carpet the boardwalk areas. The 50th anniversary celebration includes guided nature walks led by resident botanists, a retrospective exhibition on the garden’s history, and special access to normally restricted research areas.
What makes this garden special is its intimacy. Unlike Hakone’s more famous attractions, this is a place of quiet contemplation. Wooden boardwalks wind through marshes and meadows, the air smells of wet earth and wild herbs, and the only sounds are birdsong and the rustle of reeds. It’s the kind of place that rewards slow walking and close looking.
Practical details:
- Admission: approximately ¥700 (adults)
- Open 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (last entry 4:30 PM)
- Located in Sengokuhara; accessible by Hakone Tozan Bus from Hakone-Yumoto or Gora
Pola Museum of Art: Forest Gallery
A 15-minute drive (or bus ride) from the wetland garden, the Pola Museum of Art sits buried in a beech forest at 750 meters elevation. The building itself is a masterpiece — most of it underground, with glass walls that bring the forest inside. The collection spans Impressionism to modern Japanese art, with works by Monet, Renoir, Picasso, and Foujita.
In late May, the museum’s SPRING exhibition talks offer special gallery events. But even without a special exhibition, the Pola Museum is worth the visit for the building alone — and the forest walk from the parking lot to the entrance, through groves of beech and Japanese maple, is one of Hakone’s most beautiful short trails.
Practical details:
- Admission: ¥1,800 (adults)
- Open 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (last entry 4:30 PM), closed Wednesdays
- Café with forest-view terrace serves excellent coffee and light meals
The Onsen Factor
No Hakone trip is complete without a soak. Late May is ideal because the most popular onsen ryokan and day-use facilities are noticeably less crowded than during Golden Week or summer weekends. A few recommendations:
- Tenzan Tohji-kyo: An outdoor onsen complex in a forested valley near Hakone-Yumoto. Multiple open-air baths, some in natural rock formations. The atmosphere is rustic and deeply relaxing. Day use from approximately ¥1,300.
- Hakone Yuryo: A more modern facility with private open-air baths available for rent. Great for travelers who prefer privacy. Near Hakone-Yumoto Station.
- Sengokuhara onsen ryokan: If staying overnight in the Sengokuhara area (convenient for the wetland garden), several small ryokan offer milky-white sulfur springs with views of the surrounding mountains.
A Suggested Hakone Day
- Morning (9:00–11:30): Start at the Hakone Botanical Garden of Wetlands. Take a slow walk through the marshes, join a guided tour if available.
- Lunch (11:30–12:30): Head to Sengokuhara for soba noodles at one of the local restaurants. Hakone’s mountain water makes exceptional soba.
- Afternoon (13:00–15:30): Drive or take the bus to the Pola Museum. Allow at least 2 hours for the collection and the forest walk.
- Late Afternoon (16:00–18:00): Descend to Hakone-Yumoto for an onsen session at Tenzan or Hakone Yuryo.
- Evening: If staying overnight, check into a ryokan. If returning to Tokyo, the Hakone Tozan Railway to Odawara connects to the Shinkansen (35 minutes to Tokyo).
Getting to Hakone
- From Tokyo (Shinjuku): Odakyu Romance Car express to Hakone-Yumoto (about 85 minutes, ¥2,330). The most scenic and comfortable option.
- From Tokyo Station: Shinkansen to Odawara (35 minutes), then Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone-Yumoto (15 minutes).
- Hakone Free Pass: If you plan to use multiple buses, the Hakone Free Pass (from Shinjuku, approximately ¥6,100 for 2 days) covers most transportation within Hakone and includes discounts at many attractions.
Hakone is always beautiful, but late May catches it at a particular moment — between the crowds and the heat, draped in new green, with flowers opening and steam rising from mountain springs. The wetland garden’s 50th anniversary gives you a reason to visit now. The mountains will do the rest.
Image: Hakone Botanical Garden of Wetlands, CC BY-SA 3.0, by 663highland, via Wikimedia Commons
