Most travelers to Japan never make it north of Tokyo. That's understandable — Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo hold enough wonders for several lifetimes. But if you've done those circuits and crave something different, Sendai is where the map opens up. The capital of Miyagi Prefecture and the largest city in the Tohoku region, Sendai is known as the "City of Trees" for good reason: wide boulevards lined with zelkova trees turn emerald in spring, and the city's parks and castle ruins feel more like forest walks than urban attractions.
This spring, a delightfully quirky art exhibition gives you one more reason to make the trip north.
The "What If Cats" Exhibition at Sendai City Museum
From April 17 to June 7, 2026, the Sendai City Museum hosts Special Exhibition: "What If Cats", one of the most entertaining art exhibitions traveling through Japan this year.
The concept is irresistible: what if cats replaced humans in classic Japanese art? The exhibition reimagines ukiyo-e woodblock prints, historical paintings, and scenes from daily Edo-period life — but with feline protagonists. Cats dressed as samurai, cats running teahouses, cats battling in kabuki poses. It sounds whimsical, and it is, but the exhibition is grounded in serious art history. Cat imagery has a long and fascinating lineage in Japanese art, from the lucky maneki-neko beckoning cat to Utagawa Kuniyoshi's legendary cat prints in the 1840s. "What If Cats" draws on this tradition while adding fresh contemporary interpretations.
The Sendai City Museum itself occupies a beautiful hilltop location within the grounds of Aoba Castle, meaning you can combine the exhibition with a walk through some of the city's most historic terrain.
Practical info: Admission is typically 1,200-1,400 yen for adults. The museum is a 15-minute walk uphill from Sendai's International Center subway station (Tozai Line), or take the Loople Sendai sightseeing bus. Allow 1.5-2 hours for the exhibition.
Aoba Castle Ruins: The One-Eyed Dragon's Stronghold
You can't understand Sendai without understanding Date Masamune, the legendary "One-Eyed Dragon" who founded the city in 1601. His bronze equestrian statue stands at the Aoba Castle ruins overlooking the city from atop a wooded hill — one of the most iconic images in all of Tohoku.
The castle itself is gone, destroyed by fire and war over the centuries, but the stone walls and the panoramic view over Sendai remain magnificent. On clear days, you can see all the way to the Pacific Ocean. The site includes a small museum (the Aoba Castle Exhibition Hall) with a CG recreation of the original castle and exhibits on Date clan history.
In mid-to-late April, the castle grounds are one of Sendai's prime cherry blossom spots. Because Sendai sits about 350 kilometers north of Tokyo, its sakura season runs roughly two weeks later — typically peaking in the second or third week of April. If you missed the blossoms in Tokyo or Kyoto, Sendai gives you a second chance.
Access: The Loople Sendai bus stops directly at the castle ruins. Alternatively, walk uphill from the museum area (about 20 minutes from Sendai Station via the International Center Station route). The site is free; the exhibition hall is 700 yen.
Zuihoden: Date Masamune's Mausoleum
Tucked into a cedar forest on a hillside south of the castle, Zuihoden is the mausoleum of Date Masamune himself. The original structure was destroyed in World War II air raids but was faithfully reconstructed in the 1970s using historical records. The result is dazzling: elaborate black lacquer, gold leaf, and carved mythical creatures covering every surface. If Nikko's Toshogu shrine is the Tokugawa family's statement of power, Zuihoden is the Date clan's quieter, equally gorgeous reply.
The surrounding cedar grove is peaceful and atmospheric, especially in the soft light of a spring morning. Neighboring mausoleums for the second and third Date lords are also worth exploring.
Access: 15-minute walk from Sendai Station or take the Loople bus. Admission 570 yen.
Jozenji-dori: The Tree-Lined Boulevard
Sendai's most famous street isn't famous for shops or neon — it's famous for trees. Jozenji-dori is a broad boulevard with a pedestrian promenade running down its center, shaded by a double canopy of zelkova trees. In spring and summer, it forms a green tunnel that feels almost surreal in a city center.
The street is dotted with bronze sculptures by Italian artist Emilio Greco and others, making it something between a city walk and an open-air gallery. In late April and May, the fresh green leaves create a light-dappled corridor that is perfect for a slow stroll. Cafes and jazz bars line the side streets — Sendai has a surprisingly vibrant jazz scene, a legacy of the American military presence in the postwar decades.
Sendai's Food Scene: Gyutan and Beyond
Sendai is the undisputed capital of gyutan — grilled beef tongue. What might sound unusual to the uninitiated is, in practice, one of the most satisfying meals in Japan: thick-cut tongue grilled over charcoal until the edges char and the center stays juicy, served with barley rice, pickled vegetables, and oxtail soup.
The classic spots are along Gyutan Street on the third floor of Sendai Station, but for a deeper experience, head to the original locations in the city center. Rikyu, Kisuke, and Yoshitsune are the big three — each has its own loyal following and subtle differences in seasoning and thickness.
Beyond gyutan, Sendai offers:
- Zunda mochi — pounded rice cakes covered in sweet edamame paste, a vivid green treat that's become Sendai's signature dessert
- Sasakamaboko — grilled fish cake shaped like a bamboo leaf, best eaten warm at shops near the station
- Sendai miso — a rich, red miso variety used in local soups and marinades
- The Asaichi morning market near Sendai Station, a compact market selling fresh seafood, produce, and street-food breakfasts
Day Trip: Matsushima Bay
Just 40 minutes by train from Sendai, Matsushima Bay is one of Japan's officially designated "Three Great Views." More than 260 small islands dotted with wind-shaped pine trees fill the bay, and you can cruise among them on sightseeing boats departing from the town pier.
On shore, Zuiganji Temple is a stunning Momoyama-period Zen temple with caves carved into the surrounding cliffs. In April, cherry blossoms frame the temple approach. Nearby Godaido Hall, a tiny wooden structure perched over the water on a rocky islet connected by a red bridge, is one of the most photographed buildings in Tohoku.
Access: JR Senseki Line from Sendai to Matsushima-Kaigan Station (around 40 min, covered by JR Pass). A half-day trip is comfortable; a full day allows for island hopping.
Planning Your Visit
Best timing: Mid-April through early May. Cherry blossoms in Sendai typically peak around April 10-20. The "What If Cats" exhibition runs April 17 to June 7.
Getting there: The Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station takes about 1 hour 30 minutes to Sendai — making it easily doable as even a long day trip, though an overnight stay is recommended. From Sendai Airport, the airport access train reaches Sendai Station in 25 minutes.
Getting around: The Loople Sendai bus (one-day pass 630 yen) loops past all major sights including Aoba Castle, Zuihoden, and the museum. The Tozai subway line connects the station to the museum area. The city center is also very walkable.
How long: Two days is ideal — one for the city (museum, castle, Zuihoden, Jozenji-dori) and one for Matsushima. Add a third day if you want to explore the coast or venture further into Tohoku.
Budget tip: The JR East Tohoku Area Pass (5 days, 20,000 yen for foreign visitors) covers the Shinkansen to Sendai, local trains to Matsushima, and much more — it's outstanding value if you're combining Sendai with other Tohoku destinations.
Sendai doesn't shout. It doesn't have the ancient temple density of Kyoto or the electric chaos of Tokyo. What it has is something rarer: a genuinely pleasant city where excellent food, accessible history, and natural beauty converge without the crowds. Add a gloriously silly cat exhibition, and you have one of spring 2026's most charming destinations.
Image: Statue of Date Masamune in Aobayama Park, Sendai, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
