Most visitors to Tokyo never realize that the city stretches west into genuine mountain wilderness. Beyond the last suburban stations, the Tama River narrows into a rushing gorge, cedar forests climb steep hillsides, and ancient shrines sit perched on misty ridgelines. This is Okutama — Tokyo's backyard wilderness — and in April, when fresh green leaves unfurl and mountain cherry blossoms bloom weeks after the city's have fallen, it's one of the most rewarding day trips you can make.
Mount Mitake: The Sacred Peak
Mount Mitake (御岳山, 929m) has been a place of worship for over 2,000 years. The Musashi-Mitake Shrine at its summit was a pilgrimage site for Edo-period warriors who prayed to the mountain's wolf deity — and yes, wolves were once sacred here. Today, you can reach the cable car base in about 90 minutes from Shinjuku, and the ride up the mountainside takes just six minutes.
From the cable car summit station, it's a pleasant 25-minute uphill walk along a paved path lined with traditional shukubo (temple lodges) to Musashi-Mitake Shrine. The shrine's main hall sits in a clearing surrounded by towering cryptomeria trees, and the views east toward Tokyo's sprawl — visible as a hazy shimmer on clear days — create a surreal contrast with the forest silence around you.
Spring highlights at the shrine:
- Late March to mid-April: katakuri (dogtooth violet) flowers carpet the forest floor near the shrine grounds
- The shrine's sacred inu (wolf/dog) amulets are unique in Japan — a perfect souvenir
- April evenings sometimes host special cultural events at the historic Tsugumo House nearby
Rock Garden Trail: Mossy Gorge Walk
The Rock Garden Trail is the most popular hiking route from Mitake's summit, and for good reason. This 90-minute loop descends into a lush gorge where moss-covered boulders line a crystal-clear stream. In April, the fresh green canopy filters sunlight into an otherworldly glow, and you'll cross small wooden bridges over waterfalls.
The trail difficulty is moderate — some rocky sections require careful footing, and it can be slippery after rain. Proper hiking shoes are essential; sneakers won't cut it on the wet rocks.
Route: Mitake Shrine → Ayahiro Falls → Rock Garden → Ohtake-san junction → return to cable car (about 3–4 hours total)
Okutama Town: Deep Mountain Gateway
Continuing west from Mitake, the JR Ome Line terminates at Okutama Station — Tokyo's westernmost rail stop. The town itself is a quiet cluster of homes along the Tama River gorge, but it serves as the launchpad for some of the best hiking in the Kanto region.
Key experiences:
- Nippara Limestone Cave — One of the largest limestone caves in the Kanto region, maintaining a constant 11°C year-round. The illuminated 800-meter walkway passes through cathedral-like chambers. Allow 45 minutes inside.
- Okutama Lake (Ogouchi Dam) — A striking turquoise reservoir surrounded by mountains. The Drumcan Bridge (floating pontoon bridge) across a side inlet is a memorable — and slightly wobbly — experience. April is when the lakeside cherry trees bloom.
- Tama River Gorge Walk — Between Okutama and Kori stations, a riverside trail follows the gorge through dramatic rock formations. The 2-hour walk is mostly flat and accessible.
Shukubo Stay: Sleep on the Mountain
One of Mitake's most distinctive features is its cluster of shukubo — traditional temple lodges that have hosted pilgrims for centuries. About 25 lodges operate on the mountain, offering a unique overnight experience:
- Tatami rooms with futon bedding
- Multi-course vegetarian dinner (shojin ryori at some lodges, or home-style mountain cooking at others)
- Breakfast included, often with fresh mountain vegetables
- Rates typically ¥8,000–12,000 per person with two meals
- Some lodges have small outdoor baths with forest views
Staying overnight lets you experience the mountain at dawn, when mist fills the valleys below and the shrine grounds are deserted. It's genuinely magical.
Booking tip: Most shukubo only accept reservations by phone, and few staff speak English. Ask your hotel concierge or a Japanese-speaking friend to call ahead. Weekend nights in April fill up quickly.
Spring Wildflowers Calendar
The Okutama mountains bloom on a schedule roughly 2–3 weeks behind central Tokyo:
- Late March – mid-April: Katakuri (dogtooth violets) on Mitake's slopes
- Early – mid-April: Mountain cherry blossoms (yama-zakura), more delicate and wild than the city's Somei Yoshino
- Mid – late April: Fresh green leaves (shin-ryoku) — the entire mountainside turns luminous green
- Late April – May: Azaleas, wisteria, and mountain peonies
Practical Trail Guide
Easy: Mitake Shrine & Rock Garden (Half Day)
- Distance: ~5 km | Time: 3–4 hours | Difficulty: Easy-moderate
- Cable car up → Shrine visit → Rock Garden loop → Cable car down
- Good for: Families, casual hikers, photographers
Moderate: Mitake to Hinode-yama (Full Day)
- Distance: ~8 km | Time: 5–6 hours | Difficulty: Moderate
- Cable car up → Shrine → Hinode-yama summit (902m) → Descend to Tsuru-Tsuru Onsen
- Good for: Experienced hikers wanting a full-day workout with an onsen reward
- Tsuru-Tsuru Onsen at the base of Hinode-yama is the perfect post-hike soak (¥870, open until 20:00)
Challenging: Mitake to Okutama Traverse
- Distance: ~15 km | Time: 7–8 hours | Difficulty: Challenging
- Cable car up → Mitake → Ohtake-san (1,266m) → Nokogiri-yama → Okutama Station
- Good for: Fit hikers seeking a full mountain ridge traverse
- Carry lunch, 1.5L water minimum, and start by 8:00 AM
Where to Eat
- Komadori (near Mitake cable car base) — Soba noodles made with local mountain water, served hot or cold. The tororo soba (with grated mountain yam) is the specialty.
- Shukubo dinner — If you stay overnight, the multi-course dinner is the culinary highlight. Local river fish, mountain vegetables (sansai), and handmade tofu.
- Okutama Station area — A handful of small restaurants serve wasabi dishes (Okutama grows its own), grilled iwana (char) fish, and craft beer at a riverside brewery.
Getting There
From Shinjuku:
- JR Chuo Line rapid to Tachikawa (~35 min)
- Transfer to JR Ome Line to Mitake Station (~45 min) — for Mount Mitake
- Or continue to Okutama Station (~65 min from Tachikawa) — for Okutama Lake and caves
From Mitake Station to cable car:
- Bus from Mitake Station to Takimoto (10 min, ¥280)
- Cable car to summit (6 min, ¥600 one-way / ¥1,130 round-trip)
All covered by the Tokyo Wide Pass (¥15,000/3 days) or standard Suica/Pasmo.
Tip: The first cable car runs at 7:30 on weekdays (7:00 on weekends/holidays). Aim for the earliest departure to have the trails to yourself.
When to Go
Early-to-mid April is the sweet spot: cherry blossoms are peaking in the lower elevations, katakuri flowers bloom near the shrine, and the new green leaves are just emerging. Weekdays are dramatically less crowded than weekends. If rain is forecast, postpone — the Rock Garden trail becomes genuinely slippery, and cloud cover blocks the valley views that make the trip worthwhile.
The mountains west of Tokyo rarely appear in tourist guidebooks, which is exactly why they're worth visiting. In a city of 14 million people, you can find yourself alone on a mossy trail, listening to nothing but a stream and birdsong, just 90 minutes from the world's busiest train station.
Image: Hiking trail from Mitake to Okutama, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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