Tucked into a crescent-shaped bay on the Izu Peninsula, Atami has been drawing visitors to its steaming springs for over a thousand years. Emperors bathed here. Meiji-era novelists penned their masterworks in seaside ryokan. Mid-century honeymooners made it Japan's most glamorous getaway. After decades of quiet decline, this compact hillside town is roaring back — boutique hotels are opening, retro kissaten are thriving, and a new generation of travelers is discovering what made Atami irresistible in the first place.
Best of all, it's absurdly easy to reach. Tokyo Station to Atami Station takes just 45 minutes on the Tokaido Shinkansen. You can leave after breakfast and be soaking in a seaside onsen before lunch.
Why April Is the Sweet Spot
Spring brings mild coastal weather, blooming azaleas on the hillsides, and — on April 26 — one of the year's most spectacular fireworks displays. Atami's Maritime Fireworks Festival (熱海海上花火大会) is famous for a reason you can actually feel: the surrounding mountains form a natural amphitheater, bouncing sound waves off the cliffs so the explosions reverberate through your chest. The grand finale, a massive "Niagara" waterfall firework spanning the width of the bay, is worth the trip alone.
The show starts at 8:20 PM and lasts about 20 minutes. Arrive early to claim a spot on Sun Beach (熱海サンビーチ) or the親水公園 (Shinsui Park) promenade. For a more luxurious vantage point, many waterfront hotels and ryokan offer rooftop viewing — book well in advance for April dates.
MOA Museum of Art: World-Class Art on a Hilltop
Perched on a mountainside 200 meters above the sea, the MOA Museum of Art (MOA美術館) is one of Japan's most dramatically sited museums. The approach alone is worth visiting — a series of long escalators carry you through a futuristic tunnel that opens onto a panoramic lobby with floor-to-ceiling views of Sagami Bay and, on clear days, the distant silhouette of Oshima Island.
The permanent collection spans Japanese and East Asian art across three millennia, including three designated National Treasures: Ogata Korin's iconic Red and White Plum Blossoms screen painting, a golden tea leaf jar by Nonomura Ninsei, and a Song Dynasty celadon incense burner. The museum also hosts rotating exhibitions that draw on its deep holdings of ukiyo-e prints, ceramics, lacquerware, and sculpture.
Don't skip the museum's recreation of a golden tearoom (黄金の茶室), a faithful replica of Toyotomi Hideyoshi's legendary portable tea chamber, covered entirely in gold leaf. Outside, the Ippaku-an garden features a traditional thatched teahouse where you can sit with matcha and wagashi while gazing out over the Pacific.
Access: Bus #4 or #5 from Atami Station (about 7 minutes), or a steep but scenic 20-minute uphill walk. Open 9:30–16:30, closed Thursdays. Admission ¥1,600.
Kinomiya Shrine & the 2,000-Year-Old Camphor Tree
Just one stop from Atami Station on the JR Ito Line (or a 15-minute walk), Kinomiya Shrine (来宮神社) is home to one of Japan's most awe-inspiring natural monuments: a giant camphor tree (大楠) estimated to be over 2,000 years old. Its gnarled trunk measures more than 24 meters in circumference — the second largest in Japan.
Local legend says that walking once around the tree adds a year to your life, or grants a wish if you keep it secret. At night, the tree is dramatically illuminated, its massive canopy glowing green against the dark hillside. The shrine has cleverly modernized without losing its soul — there's a stylish café on the grounds serving matcha lattes and local craft beer, and the shrine's Instagram-ready atmosphere draws a young crowd alongside traditional worshippers.
The shrine is dedicated to Okuninushi (大己貴命) and Gorokaibari (五十猛命), a deity associated with trees and nature. Spring is especially beautiful when fresh green leaves fill the ancient camphor's canopy.
Soaking in Atami's Onsen
Atami literally means "hot sea" — according to legend, the town got its name when hot spring water once boiled so fiercely it killed fish in the bay. Today, the geothermal energy is channeled into hundreds of onsen baths across the city.
For day-trippers, several options stand out:
- Fuua (フーア): Opened in 2019, this modern oceanfront spa features an infinity-edge hot spring pool with sweeping views of the bay. The rooftop roten-buro (outdoor bath) at sunset is unforgettable. Day passes start at around ¥2,600.
- Hirakikan (平鶴): A traditional ryokan with a day-use onsen right at the water's edge — waves literally lap against the rocks below the outdoor bath. One of Atami's most photogenic bathing experiences.
- Atami Eki-mae Onsen: As the name suggests, it's right in front of the station. No-frills, locals-only atmosphere. ¥500 gets you a soak and a dose of everyday Japanese life.
Many ryokan offer day-use bathing (日帰り入浴) between check-out and check-in times, typically 11:00–15:00. Call ahead to confirm.
Strolling the Town: Retro Charm Meets Revival
Atami's compact size means you can cover its highlights on foot. Start at Atami Station, where a small foot bath on the platform lets you dip your toes while watching the trains. The station's surrounding streets are packed with souvenir shops selling himono (dried fish), Atami's signature food.
Walk downhill toward the waterfront via the Nakamise Shopping Street (仲見世通り), a narrow alley of old-school snack shops, dagashi candy stores, and onsen manju bakeries. This area captures the nostalgic atmosphere of Showa-era Atami, when the town was the honeymoon capital of Japan.
Along Sun Beach, the palm-lined Boardwalk Promenade offers Mediterranean vibes that feel surreal in Japan. The beach itself has golden sand (artificially maintained) and is illuminated in colorful lights at night year-round.
For art and culture, check out the Atami Trick Art Museum for lighthearted fun, or the Ikeda Museum of 20th Century Art for a quieter experience with works by Dalí, Chagall, and Matisse.
Food & Drink
Atami's food scene reflects its coastal setting and resort heritage:
- Himono (干物): Sun-dried horse mackerel, mackerel, and other fish are Atami's most famous souvenir and breakfast staple. Pick some up at the shops near the station or at the Atami Himono Bank for vacuum-packed varieties.
- Seafood donburi: The restaurants along the waterfront serve generous bowls of fresh sashimi over rice. Look for places advertising "朝獲れ" (caught this morning).
- Onsen tamago: Soft-boiled eggs cooked in hot spring water, available at various spots around town.
- Local craft beer: Several microbreweries have opened in recent years, reflecting Atami's renewal. Try the offerings at the Kinomiya Shrine café.
- Kissaten culture: Atami's old-school coffee houses are a highlight — places with velvet seats, hand-drip coffee, and no Wi-Fi. Seek them out on the side streets.
Day Trip to Hatsushima Island
For an adventure, catch a 30-minute ferry from Atami Port to Hatsushima (初島), a tiny island with a fishing village, tropical gardens, and an adventure park with treetop ziplines. The island has a resident population of about 200 and feels wonderfully remote despite being visible from Atami's shore. Ferry tickets cost about ¥2,640 round trip.
Planning Your Visit
Getting there: JR Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo (45 min, Kodama; 50 min, Hikari). JR Tokaido Line local trains also reach Atami in about 1h40m from Tokyo and are covered by the Japan Rail Pass and Seishun 18 Kippu.
Recommended itinerary (day trip):
- Morning: Kinomiya Shrine and the great camphor tree
- Late morning: MOA Museum of Art
- Lunch: Seafood donburi near the station or waterfront
- Afternoon: Onsen at Fuua or a waterfront ryokan
- Evening: Sun Beach promenade, dinner, and fireworks (if visiting April 26)
Recommended itinerary (overnight): Add a morning ferry to Hatsushima Island, and spend the evening in a ryokan with a kaiseki dinner and private onsen.
Budget: Atami works at every price point. A shinkansen day trip with lunch and a public bath can be done for under ¥10,000. An overnight ryokan stay with kaiseki runs ¥15,000–40,000+ per person.
Combining with other destinations: Atami sits at the gateway to the Izu Peninsula. From here, you can easily continue south to Ito, Shimoda, or the Jogasaki Coast for dramatic sea cliffs and more onsen towns.
Image: City of Atami skyline, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
